A Maryland Summer Feast

Join me in celebrating summer's bounty with the foods that Maryland has always been famous for.

When dinner is going to be so sumptuous, I have, over the years, learned to scale back the appetizers to a modest handful. I think back on my catering days when every dinner party started with three hot hors d'oeuvres and three cold ones, and at least an hour and a half of drinking, and wonder,"How did we do it? How did anybody do it?" Well, times have certainly changed, and for the better, in terms of
healthier eating.

So a simple presentation of crusty cheese straws and colorful baby tomatoes from a friend's garden is just enough to start the gastric juices flowing.


Since everyone gathers in the kitchen where we eat, they can see that the table-setting looks promising.

The menu is blissfully simple, designed to highlight the regional, seasonal, best:
    Crab Imperial and Sauteed Soft-shell Crabs
    Tomatoes Stuffed with Fresh Corn
    Green Beans/Red Onions Vinaigrette

Soft-shells crisping in the sauté pan.

Tomato and corn casserole.

Green beans vinaigrette.

To keep serving simple, the beans were ladled into the small dishes on the table before guests were seated, and the rest served from a sideboard, with the proviso that guests may get up and help themselves to seconds....and they did!

Composing this menu, I took some liberties with my family's traditional summer meals, just to make the serving simple. We would always have had corn on the cob, but that gets messy at the best of times, so I devised this simple way of doing: cut the raw corn off the cob; mix with the pulp of the tomatoes, a few bread cubes, parsley, salt, pepper, and a little butter; stuff the quartered
tomatoes; and bake around 20-25 minutes.

Rather than the usual cole slaw accompaniment, the green beans/red onions provide the same sharp contrast and are colorful and delicious. Simply layer the barely-cooked beans over very thinly-sliced onion, and dress with balsamic vinegar, olive oil, salt and pepper. Cover (that way, the beans semi-cook the onions) and let sit out until cool. This is really better at room temperature (or, as the French say: "température ambiante") than cold, so if you make it the day before, take it out of the refrig a couple of hours before serving.

Crab Imperial is my mother's recipe, modified only to be a little less rich: simply mayonaise, lemon juice and Old Bay seasoning, and buttered bread crumbs to top. Again, bake about 25 minutes.

And on to dessert! There are so many ways to use peaches, I was torn between peach upside-down cake, cobbler, shortcake or a crumble. I finally opted for the crumble.

The Internet can make you crazy, with too many recipes, and three shelves of cookbooks just further confused my thinking. So I finally winged it: fresh sliced peaches, tossed with a mixture of flour/a little cornstarch/ some sugar/ a sprinkle of nutmeg. Baked, covered, in its serving dish, until tender and juices all thickened, however long that takes (about an hour.) Make the topping separately:

the same thickening mixture, plus granola and finely chopped almonds, and butter to cream it all together. Both of these steps can be done the day before. Early on party day, just using your hands, pat out the topping onto the peaches, bake until lovely and crusty.

Serve, slightly warm, with whipped cream or vanilla ice cream.

So satisfying, the day after, to have a few left-overs, a clean kitchen, and glorious flowers brought by a guest.

Hope your summer ends well and is full of good food and fun faïence.   

Joan

    

 

Show Time!

The start of a new year, with snow and bitter cold...but ...I had signed up to do the Annapolis Antiques Show, and the show must go on!  Here is a walkabout for those of you too far away to have come.

I usually ask for dark green paper, as my table covers are a dark green check that I had had made years ago: they, and the paper, set off Quimper better than any other color.
    

I was in the lobby, facing the entrance; this wall was the first thing people saw, and I actually sold quite well from this space.
            

The firehouse windsor, in its rare old red paint, sold, as did the Indian quilt hanging from the opposite corner.
     

The miniature chairs attracted much attention, but people wanted them for dollhouses, and they are not the correct proportion for that; I actually had to talk several people out of them! They are more salesman's sample size, so I'm sure someone will want them...they would be great with miniature real plants in a tablescape.

It is always a dilemma to know just what Quimper to bring, so I did a smorgasbord of styles and periods and prices.

 

Early Quimper on one shelf, plus birds, flowers, and other unusual decors.
  

Two handsome jardinières dominated the center of the center table. I really wanted to properly enhance them with some fresh greenery, but the extreme cold made it unlikely that my plants would have survived (I was having enough trouble myself surviving), so I didn't. But it does make a difference! I had half-a-dozen inquiries of, "What is it for?".

That table held other useful pieces:
    

A Breton Broderie letter holder, perfect for my business cards.

 

These delightful bookends: Little Red Riding-Hood and the Wolf, just right to hold my book "Collecting Quimper".
    

 

Just for fun, and because I like the soft contrast of old paint against the glaze of the pottery, 4 dear little French soldiers, standing guard in the midst of it all.

  

 

And one lovely Odetta pitcher, in my favorite seashell pattern. It gave me a chance to show off this genre of Quimper and explain it to folks who only know the traditional patterns.

Showtime is over for the season, but we continue to look for good old Quimper and are always available to discuss your wishes. All of the above pieces are available, as well as much, much more, so don't hesitate to call or email us!

And these are a great way to start the new year: a handsome pair of figural candlesticks...( but they sold before I could even post them; so I shall have to keep an eye out for more of this age and quality!)

A good 2018 to everyone, Joan Datesman

Summer 2017: The more things change...

"Plus ça change, plus c'est le même chose". That's the old French aphorism: "The more things change, the more they are the same." Many years ago, I decided,"Plus ça change, plus ça change"... "The more things change, the more they change". Never felt that more strongly than this summer in Brittany, where so many things are disappearing: antiques shops, markets, simple good food in restaurants. But I had a very good sojourn, for five weeks, so I'll talk about the good parts, and some of the high spots.:

Beginning with: Les Fermes de Betty, in Combrit, where I have stayed for a number of years:
        

That's my bedroom, right in the middle of all those luscious hydrangeas  (I remember the summer they were planted, such a hot and dry season that there was a watering ban on, and I really didn't expect them to survive at all). They did, and so does everything there:

        

That's a yummy climbing rose that grows just outside the breakfast room door.

   

It is such a perfect country setting (anyone's dream of what Brittany should look like), and there is some constant rural company: the two little donkeys Betty gave her husband for Xmas one year.

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It is always fun to go into Quimper: this year, there was an exhibit of old travel posters at the Musee départmentale breton that was just stunning - click here to see for yourself! Judy and I went in to see it, stopping to admire the plantings on the bridge as we crossed.

          

        
I have the catalogue, so I can curl up here at home among all those gorgeous places depicted by all those terrific artists. That was the Golden Age of French poster art, and this is a wonderful grouping from that time.

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Another day, we had lunch in  Pont l'Abbé, at a very good restaurant, "L'Essentiel". Excellent fish preparation and a yummy dessert. This is a fairly new place, and the best thing to come to that town, food-wise, that I can remember (so sometimes, when things change, it can  be for the better.)

I wanted to visit "My Ladies" while I was there:

This stunning group was created by the artist, Francois Bazin, who also did work for the de la Hubaudiere faïencerie in the 1920s. In my book, "Collecting Quimper", on. p.10, there is a picture of the principal figure seated alone. I think I have loved these ladies from the first moment I ever saw them, and I  have never been to Brittany, in all these years, that I did not visit them twice: to say "Bonjour" and again "Adieu".

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Crêpes, of course, are the region's most famous delicacy, and no one makes them better than my friend Michel. To sit at his kitchen table, while he is deftly ladling and spreading his buckwheat batter onto a piping hot griddle, slathering them with butter as he folds them onto plates (yes, he has cheese, and ham, and other toppings available, but I prefer them just as he does: butter only) is a special treat worth ditching any diet regimen for and spending a weekend's worth of calories. He is also a fine gardener, so after lunch, we took a stroll to admire his plantings.

      

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Another festive lunch was with my friends, Daniela and Henrik,  from Berlin who were there for several weeks. We went to Benodet, to one of my old favorites, Le Transat, sitting outdoors on their terrace, facing the Odet River...it was one of the best days, weather-wise, of the whole trip (which was mostly standard Brittany chilly, overcast and rainy).
        

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The one-day outdoor antiques market at Locronan has always been one of my favorites: not because I have ever found very much to buy, but the assortments have always been very interesting and diverse, I see people that I have known for years, and the village itself is such a lovely old spot.

I have always gone very early in the morning, so I can at breakfast at the hotel and watch the dealers setting up right in front of me.

 
This year was, sadly, dismal: the weather, the dealers, and the merchandise. Here is what I bought:

What are they? Five small silk handkerchiefs that look embroidered but are actually very delicately painted! The dealer told me such an interesting story about them, as follows: they came from a man in St. Nazaire, who claimed they came from a museum started by Mme. de Gaulle after the second World War, to honor the American soldiers who took part in the liberation of Brittany. When I pressed her for more information, she shrugged, and told me to look on line for more! Well, I have done so, and so far have not come up with anything whatsoever! If anyone can shed some light on these, do please contact me! The only thing I can add is my hostess, Betty's comment, "These are not typical French ways of saying things".

Anyway, I'm afraid that Locronan is one more pleasant memory, but no longer a viable market. The very next day, at another (uneventful) market in St. Marine, I ran into

Francois Nozières, whom I had seen at Locronan; he told me that after I left, the rain became so heavy that dealers arrived and simply turned around and left. I'm afraid that speaks more to the buying climate than the weather.

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And then on to Paris, (of course, it was a gorgeous day when I was spending most of it on the TGV)  and one night in my old neighborhood in the 7th arrondissement.

That's the corner of the Boulevard Latour-Maubourg and the Rue St. Dominique, looking towards the Place des Invalides. At least, here, the owners' names may change, but there is still a brasserie on every corner.

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And now..home! Still sorting, photographing, writing....

New web pages in early September...you'll get a letter from me the minute they are posted. In the meantime, enjoy the rest of your summer...Joan

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Winter 2017

        The winter of our discontent...sorry, I have no intention of turning this into a political statement, but as I was driving to the auto train last month to return home, and thinking about my past three months I simply couldn't shake the phrase...
I'll skip over the obvious reasons I am psychologically impaled on Shakespeare... and concentrate on the bright spots of this winter's sojourn in Florida: Mostly thoughts about food.
To start: In Venice, my beloved French bakery, Croissant and Company, have added some new goodies this year. Saturdays  only, a small round chocolate loaf, crusty on the outside, soft in the middle, luscious toasted with sweet butter or cream cheese. As you can see from the pictures, everything looks (and is!) delicious




That's Jean-Pierre, le patron, and his son Ben, the head baker: everything comes out of those ovens fresh and warm, all day long and I love to sit and watch the parade of  baguettes piled up on trays...




This is my favorite spot where I can survey the whole scene, talk to people, and forever be diverted by the decor, which I call "A Frenchman's Dream of Florida".  The charming paintings are done by daughter Jess,   and Lynne, la patronne, who is English, has a marvelous strawberry-colored hairdo, to complete the decor!



Oh!  I forgot to say the most important thing of all: they are from Quimper! And if you go to their website: Croissant and Company, Venice, Florida, you can indulge in a glorious visual feast without expending any calories.

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In Sarasota, I had a Thai chicken ginger soup that was super. When I can replicate it, or find a good online source, I'll  let you know. I've sampled several other places, but less appealing. I suspect this was the best due to just excellect ingredients and that indefinable pinch of TLC.

In Mt. Dora, I stayed at Farnsworth House for some weeks, and became so friendly with Kim and Soren, the innkeepers, that they let me take over their kitchen long enough to teach them how to make my bread pudding.

Recipe: Ingredients:
 Three large bags of bread scraps: crusts, baguette bits, whatever. 16 eggs, 1 1/2 quarts milk or part half-and-half...that is the basic custard. I prefer to let the trimmings add the sweetness: so, 1 bag frozen fresh cocunut, sweetened. 1 small jar apricot preserves. 1 cup lightly toasted slivered almonds. Three large deep casseroles, or souffle dishes, lightly greased, preferably with butter.
Method:
  Put all the bread (which you have been saving, so it may be right out of the freezer) on a large flat baking sheet, and toast in a 300o oven until it is dried out and pale brown...you can be toasting the almonds at the same time.  Divide the bread amongst the baking dishes. Beat eggs, milk, coconut, and pour over the bread. Put small dollops of the apricot jam here and there throughout, pushing them down into the mixture. Sprinkle the almonds over the top, but also push in slightly.  All this not only may be done 24 hours ahead, it is actually better, as it gives the custard time to soak well into the bread.  Just cover with saran wrap, and refrigerate...take out an hour or so before getting ready to bake. Bake at 350o approximately 1 hour....this will depend slightly on how deep your dishes are. They are done when risen, puffy, and slightly browned on top, and a knife inserted (like any good custard) will come out clean. Allow 15 minutes to set before serving.



A word about seasoning, flavorings: if you find not quite sweet enough, a light sprinkle of powdered sugar on top before serving, or even a sprinkle of granulated sugar while baking should be enough. If you are lucky enough to find unsweetened coconut, then you may want to add 1/2 cup sugar to the original custard mix.  I do not suggest adding vanilla, almond extract, cinnamon, nutmeg or anything else, but that is my own preference as I find the apricot/coconut/almond balance exactly right.
 And this may be reheated, gently, if there are any leftovers. Bon appetit!
As you can see, these quantities made enough for three casseroles, 6-8 servings each.  This is a very flexible recipe, I have refined it to my own particular likes and dislikes (no raisins!), but one can vary it indefinitely.

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Kim loaned me a book, "A Land Remembered" by Patrick Smith, which is an incredible fictionalized account of the settling of Florida. I have already recommended  it to friends here, and I  recommend it highly to all of you.  Not only is it a wonderful story of pioneers in that part of the country, it is a sobering look at how much of our history is founded on violence, even by honest men of goodwill, who were only fighting to protect their own lands and families.
It was very odd for me to be truly idle for three months...
So shortly I'll be back in my website harness, and pictures of recently acquired Quimper purchases will be on line...you'll be the first to know (all of you)!

-Joan

Food and Faience, Yum!

I was lucky to be raised by a very good cook: my mother, who just instinctively prepared delicious, appetizing meals, and always well presented. Over the years, in addition to her repertoire, I've added lots more from books, magazines, friends, dining-out experiences, trading tips with my three children.

But times have changed and everyone's eating habits have changed. When I think back to my catering career, when every menu started with three hot hors d'oeuvres, and three cold ones, before the dinner, be it seated or buffet, I wonder now: "How did we do it? How did we all manage to eat and drink so much?"

So my kitchen research nowadays is much more into: Easy, Nourishing, Healthful. These are just three of the recipes I am currently using, one I developed some years ago, one quite new, and one from a friend.


On to the kitchen!

A Good Green Soup:

 Basic Ingredients: Bag of Broccoli Florets, Carton of Baby Spinach and one of Baby Kale,
             One or two large Onions, Chicken  Bouillon and or Vegetable Bouillon, Milk

Method:In a large soup pot, steam the broccoli in the bouillons until quite soft, put spinach and kale in on top,put lid back on and turn off heat. Those greens will be wilted-cooked in no time. In a separate pan, saute sliced onion until lightly caramelized. Add to main pot, coarsely puree with an immersion blender, and add milk to thin as desired. Season to taste: little or no salt needed depending on your bouillon stock,; I like lots of black pepper, and nutmeg on top.

A Winter-Summer Salad:

Basic Ingredients: Romaine Lettuce, Feta Cheese, Watermelon, Croutons, Oil and Vinegar

Method: I find this is best created directly on each plate as it composes better that way than if all tossed together. Make croutons first: I use any crusty French bread, Mexican rolls, or whatever, just dice, slide onto a flat baking pan and into a 375o oven. While they are toasting, chop the lettuce, dice watermelon cubes, and crumble cheese ...assemble in layers, dress very lightly ( olive oil and white balsamic vinegar are my choices), salt and pepper to taste, and at the last minute, a handful of toasty-hot bread cubes on top.
 Picture:101-0213

The Delicious Protein Snack:

Basic Ingredients: Large carton Cottage Cheese, 6 Eggs, Lemon Juice, Sugar, Cinnamon

Method:   Blend all to a soupy consistency in a regular blender , pour into individual ramekins, set them on a rimmed pan, and pour hot water around them. Bake at 350o until they puff and crack slightly at the edges...usually about 45 60 minutes.  The variables here are the lemon juice...I like lemon flavor,(think good cheesecake!)but one could omit or use vanilla instead and I use as little sugar as possible; could be varied with honey or possibly a sugar substitute. Cinnamon is also a variable; can be baked in, as here, sprinkled after, or omitted.

These keep very well, refrigerated, for as much as a week, and I have even frozen them on occasion.
Garnish with orange sections, or grapes, or, as I am about to do right now, eat one still warm from the oven!

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Where does the faience come into it?  I do use interesting old pieces in my kitchen, I do eat on it, and, of course, I am still buying and selling it. All the pieces shown in this blog are from stock and are for sale.

The soup was to be served on one of my 19th century plates (of which I have a good shelf-ful) that are not Quimper, but what I think of as O.F.F.., meaning Other French Faience.

The duck plate, and the floral to its left are from the Bourgogne_Auxerre region. The bird plate to the left of that is old Nevers.

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Salad plate is from St. Clement, late 19th century

As is its mate on the right. The little tureen is from Tours.

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The delicious snack fixings are piled in a wonderful old Quimper server.

It  awaits a new home with other pieces from that factory, that era.

You are welcome to contact me about the food, and/or the faience.
   Joan Datesman